St Juliot Church
Click photo for larger image
1 The east window, of Victorian glass, depicts Christ as The Good Shepard
2 Tower is in three stages, without buttresses - part of the
rebuilding of 1872.
3 External view, photo taken to late to see the the early spring
snowdrops
4 Inside St Juliot you can see the font and new screen.
5 Just inside the door, near the font, on the left is the Holy Water Stoup.
Those entering church would sign themselves with the sign of the cross as an act of spiritual cleansing and self consecration.
St Juliot in
an isolated position on the northern slopes of the Valency Valley. The
church is snugly tucked away below the road, and for those with the time to
do it, the walk along through the woods from Boscastle is perhaps the best
way to find this magical spot which has become indelibly associated with
Thomas Hardy, the novelist and architect: readers of "A Pair of Blue Eyes"
will rapidly recognise church and place. The churchyard is at its very best
in the early spring, when snowdrops drift the banks, but at any time of the
year the setting is timeless.
When hardy first came to St Juliot, in March 1870,
he came not as a writer, but as an architect, appointed to make preparations
for the restoration of the church, but the visit changed his life. For here
he met Emma Gifford, the Rector's sister in law, who became his wife.
What Hardy found was a church in a parlous state, hard to imagine today, but
echoed many of the churches of the area at the time. The 14th Century tower
was in a ruinous and falling state, and the whole building was in
'irredeemable dilapidation'. Emma's own record states that 'that the carved
bench ends rotted more and more , ivy hung gaily from the roof timbers and
birds and bats had a good time unmolested. No one seemed to care. 'Drastic
measures were needed. The tower had come down; the old nave and chancel were replaced by the
smaller north aisle,
The present north aisle
replaced the old nave and chancel. On the north wall is the memorial
to Emma, designed by Hardy himself. There is also a memorial tablet recording Hardy's" association with the church and the
neighbourhood" installed in 1928. Click to enlarge image
and the 15th Century former south aisle
became the nave
and chancel as it is today.
So the rebuilt tower is now at the west end of
the new small aisle. The northern transept was
destroyed at this time
together with much old
woodwork and a Jacobean Pulpit. Hardy
himself
regretted so much had to be
destroyed, but there was no other way
forward.
His drawings are still preserved in the
church, and there is a useful booklet
on sale
which describes in more detail Hardy's association with St Juliot.
Inside, whilst the restoration is immediately
obvious, Hardy's work is sympathetic to the past. The church gives a
comfortable feel of use and tradition - with one stark, sad nod at the
present day. A notice on a pillar declares " The brass and other items have
been stolen."
The Screen and Pulpit are Victorian, installed by Hardy - though not entirely
in accordance with his instructions. He wanted to repair and replace the
original screen by careful patching, but the enthusiasm and generosity
of the builders overtook his wishes. When Hardy found the present screen
 installed the builder explained " I said to myself I won't stand on a pound
or two while I'm about it, I'll give 'em a new screen instead of that patched
up old thing. Click to enlarge image
Thomas Hardy
St Juliot Changed Hardy's life for ever. Here he fell in love, and much
encouraged by Emma, was persuaded to spend the rest of his life as a writer.
This place much influenced him, and the church as
 it stands today is a fitting
memorial to his affection and enthusiasm for the place. But he was building on
a past of centuries of worship, which continues to the present day. Remember,
if you will, past benefactors with gratitude, and remember and support those
in this small community who keep the church for the future.
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Extracts taken from 'CHURCH
TRAILS IN CORNWALL' packs produced by North Cornwall Heritage Coast &
Countryside. Original text by Jeremy Dowling
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